Monday, August 6, 2012

Happy Ramadan!


     It's Ramadan now and my entire village eats and drinks nothing between sunrise and sunset. The vibe is noticeably different, by the mid afternoon everyone is exhausted and just rests until sunset. I've been using this time to listen to the Olympics on my short wave radio. As I said earlier, I wasn't planning on fasting and stocked up on food to sustain me during the day. Unfortunately what I thought was a 2 week food supply lasted about three days, I spent most of my time in village eating nothing during the day. Fasting actually isn't as difficult as I thought it would be, still, I plan on hitting the market before I go back to my site this evening.
     A few weeks ago I attended a wedding in my village. Like the baptism, I didn't see anything resembling a ceremony, I wasn't even sure who the bride and groom were. I went to the wedding with the chief of my village. When we arrived at the compound I began to head over to one corner where there were musicians playing and a lively crowd, the chief stopped me and invited me to sit with him and a group on the opposite end of the compound. I spent the evening practicing my Pular with old men while they argued about local politics and chewed kola nuts. When the food bowl came I was excited, an animal is typically slaughtered at these events and I hadn't eaten meat in weeks. When the cover was removed from the bowl I recoiled when I saw a sheep's head, skin and hair intact, sitting on top of the rice. I ate rice from the bowl, trying not to look at the head, when one of the men peeled the skin off and began distributing bits of tongue, brain and eyeball around the bowl. At this point I said I was full.

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